Plant of the Month

January Plant of the Month – Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

Tuesday, January 3rd, 2012

Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

The Witch Hazels are deciduous shrubs (and sometimes trees) growing to approximately 3 – 6 metres.

The botanical name means ‘together with fruit’; its fruit, flowers and next year’s leaf buds all appear on the branch simultaneously.

These are very popular ornamental plants, grown for their clusters of rich yellow to orange-red flowers which begin to expand in the autumn as (or slightly before) the leaves fall, and continue throughout the winter, thus making it a favorite to brighten up beds that can often be dull during the winter period.
They are best grown in a slightly acid soil & prefer a good humus-rich, fertile soil which is moist but well drained. Provide regular water during summer dry spells.
They can also be grown in pots but will need a bit of care if you choose to grow them this way as they must have a cool root-run in summer. Re-pot them regularly and move to a place out of hot sunshine in summer when they are not in flower.
They don’t generally require pruning, but it might occasionally be necessary to remove dead or dying wood. It is possible to prune them after flowering but is not advisable because the wounds do not heal readily and the natural grace of the shrub can be lost.
Witch Hazel is also known for it’s medicinal uses; the bark and leaf being astringent, the extract (also referred to as witch hazel) is used in aftershave lotions and lotions treating bruises, insect bites, eczema and acne.

Here at Orchard Park we have a good variety of this most versatile and pleasing shrub.

Plant of the Month – March 2011

Tuesday, March 8th, 2011

Big bloomers with Magnolia and Camellia

Magnolia Stellata

Magnolia Stellata

I am happy to admit that I really adore love magnolias! The fantastic blooms are simultaneously showy yet classy and perhaps because of this, it has always struck me as bizarre that this beautiful plant had the very bland coloured wall paint named after it.  After all, there are many magnolia varieties with colours ranging from deep purple to snowy white so why pick this plant name to represent such a nondescript colour?  The one thing the paint and the plant do have in common is their versatility – I think it is safe to say that most houses have magnolia paint somewhere in the building.  In the same way, I’m pretty sure that there is a variety of magnolia that would bring beauty and joy to any UK garden – even if it’s growing in a pot.

Camellias too are an early spring stunner with gorgeous blooms that easily rival those of magnolia.  Flowers tend to be white, pink or red and, like magnolia, some camellias will be happy living in good-sized pots.  Many magnolias and camellias are ‘lime haters’ which means if your soil is not acidic you’ll have to create suitable soil conditions in containers – but always ask the garden centre plant staff for the right soil for your plant.

With Mother’s Day on the horizon, what could be better than a perusal of this pair of ‘Big bloomers’?  The Mother’s Day gift is often a rushed purchase from the local chocolate shop or florist – this year why not consider a garden plant?

But where to start with so many varieties to choose from?  An all round popular choice is Magnolia stellata a great choice for smaller gardens growing only to 4 or 5ft after ten years. Does well in a good sized pot or in most garden soils as with the right care this plant will develop into a compact, well-shaped tree, gorgeous in bloom and also attractive in winter with its twig-like branches and velvet buds. Its beautiful pure white flowers resemble stars and are lightly scented.  After the flowers, light green leaves appear.

Magnolia Soulangeana  makes a large deciduous shrub or small tree with the most fabulous pastel pink and white flowers which emerge on bare branches in spring.  It is relatively tolerant of wind and alkaline soils and will eventually make a tree up to 15m and a width of around 6m.

Plant of the Month for February

Tuesday, February 8th, 2011

Early spring flowering plants are really special – it is like a reward for having put up with a dark and wet winter! The Hellebores, Winter Cherries, and Witch Hazels are the first brave flowers to show, followed by Daphnes and early spring cherries.

The size of your garden will determine what you can grow – most hellebores can be found a space somewhere. They like a reasonable soil with good amounts of organic matter in it. This can be topped up each year to keep the soil in good heart. The Cherry, Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ flowers at odd times through the winter and has a grand final fling in early spring. It is a small growing tree that won’t shade out other plants and well worth the investment. It can give a good display of autumn colour as well.

Witch Hazel makes a gangly sort of shrub that keeps a low profile for much of the year, coming into its own in spring. The bare branches can be covered with flowers from pale yellow, gold, pink and bronzy-red. The yellow flowered varieties tend to have the sweetest scent, especially Hammamelis ‘Pallida’. The hazel-like leaves give a good autumn display with deep orange and purples.

Witch hazels are not hard to grow, and are as versatile as they are beautiful. Put one at the back of a wide border to add height, grow as a good specimen plant, or plant in groups. They’re fully hardy and tolerate most garden soils including chalk providing the soil is deep enough. Full sun or partial shade is fine, as long as there is some protection from winds. Maintenance is minimal, just a tidy up with the secateurs in late winter to keep the shape you want.
Daphne – are early spring delights with both deciduous and evergreen forms. The name is derived from the ancient Greek meaning “laurel.”  In Greek mythology, Daphne was the name of a nymph who was pursued by the god Apollo. Her father, a river god, changed her into a laurel bush to save her from him. Hopefully she was changed back when danger had passed, but I cannot confirm this.

Daphne laureola is better know as Spurge Laurel, and is a UK native with subtle lightly scented green flowers and glossy green leaves; it doesn’t get too tall and thrives in the shade. Very ordinary but works well as ground cover. Daphne odora is far more glamorous! Evergreen and reasonably hardy in this part of the world, it produces deep purple-pink and white flowers any time now. They have a strong scent – unforgettable once you have smelt it. The variety D. odora ‘Aureomarginata’ has leaves with subtle creamy-yellow margins. It is well behaved, slow growing and doesn’t get too tall.

Daphne mezereum, and Daphne x burkwoodii have a more upright habit, but are deciduous with their scented spring flowers carried on bare stems.

Alpine Daphnes such as D. bholua are particularly eye catching in a rockery but need to be well drained in winter. In general the Daphnes are not too difficult to grow and will cope with most soils except very acid ones, as long as they neither dry out nor become waterlogged.

Jobs for the Month

Catch up the winter jobs before spring gets going. General tidying up, finish winter pruning of dormant trees and shrubs, especially the fruit. I plan to get the roses done fairly soon on the basis of previous springs being relatively frost free, but we’ll see what the weather brings. Ornamental trees often need a little surgery and young trees need shaping, and mature deciduous shrubs often need thinning out [about a 3rd each year for many sorts]. It’s a good time to cut back overgrown deciduous hedges, and, of course, prune the wisteria. Evergreens are best left until March for pruning although hardy evergreen hedges can be dealt with now. Use secateurs on large leafed plants such as laurels to avoid leaf damage.

Bulbs are shooting up, and if it goes cold they will slow up but they’re tough and unlikely to be damaged. Snowdrops should be split and replanted after flowering – ‘in-the-green’ as are Winter Aconites.
Seed potatoes and onion sets are now in the garden centre – so for the best selection and the sought after varieties – get there early! The grow-your-own incentives have never been stronger and with a bit of decent weather there is no reason why any of us should be denied a decent harvest.

If you are growing vegetables from seed, it pays to cover an area of ground with black plastic to allow the ground to dry out a little and warm up – makes early seed sowing more productive.

Have some horticultural fleece on hand to cover up any early tender growth or fruit blossom if the frosts should return at an awkward time.

Plant of the Month for November

Monday, November 8th, 2010

Plants to bring a bit of cheer in the dark days; Skimmia, Pyracantha, Cotoneaster, Sarcococcca, Mahonia are all worth planting. Skimmias do very well in tubs; evergreen shrubs originating from the Himalayas and right across south-east Asia, China and Japan. The oval shaped leaves are dark green and the fragrant clusters of flowers range from white to creamy yellow. They are one of the early flowering shrubs, coming into bloom as early as February but carrying colourful buds or fruit through the winter . Skimmias come in male and female varieties, with the exception of two hermaphrodite sub-species reevesiana and reevesiana Robert Fortune. To make a female bear fruit, it must be pollinated by the male.

The most popular species of skimmia is Skimmia japonica Rubella which is a male, bearing deep red flowerbuds throughout the winter opening out into creamy-white fragrant flowers in spring. Skimmia reevesiana Rogersii is a popular female variety along with Skimmia x confusa ‘Kew Green’.

In general they like an acid soil, rich in humus. Ericaceous compost is a good substitute if your soil is neutral or alkaline especially if treated with sequestered iron solution or an acid Azalea, Rhododendron or Camellia feed as well. Skimmias can often look tired with leaves paling to light green or yellow, and this is a sign that it is in need of feeding. Apart from that they are hardy and easy to grow, preferring dappled shade to full sun.

Pyracanthas are well suited to clay soils and will tolerate a range of conditions from sun to shade. These are good wildlife plants; their dense twiggy nature is great for the birds feeding from the berries, and the small white flowers in spring are a great source of nectar for early insects. There are a number of different varieties to choose from to produce plants of varying heights from 60cm to 3m or more, and with yellow orange or red berries. Recent years have seen the introduction of disease resistant varieties [in some areas Pyracanthas can be susceptible to scab and fireblight] and it may be worth searching these out; look for the Saphyr varieties. Otherwise there are a lot of excellent free berrying sorts to give a fantastic winter show and keep the birds in your garden.

Plant of the Month – October

Friday, October 1st, 2010

Creative, colourful and convenient – not necessarily the first three words that would spring to mind if asked to describe a conifer. Yet the modern day British conifer is all of those things as will be demonstrated during National Conifer Week 2010 which runs from 2 – 10 October. This is a campaign that originates from the Horticultural Trades Association which represents growers in the UK.

Evergreens and conifers are traditionally planted in spring and autumn, and conifers in particular are a wonderful way of adding colour and shape to your garden. There is a huge range of different shapes and sizes of conifer to make traditional and contemporary displays, conifers that will suit containers as well as borders, and varieties which will make good ground cover, low and medium tall shrubberies as well as stately trees. Conifers represent a fantastic group of plants that can fit into most gardens often as stand-alone features to give height to borders, or create a formal look for a path or around a doorway. They are really striking when covered with snow or frost in winter.  In truth their popularity was at its peak in the 70’s but they have achieved something of a well earned revival in recent years. The fact that they do work well with so many other plants is a real advantage especially where space is limited and the choice of plants is critical. Not all conifers are huge, fast-growing types; there are some excellent dwarf growing varieties as well as some that make neat upright or bushy shapes.

And conifers don’t stay the same colour all year round – many of them change colour with the seasons, so you can achieve fabulous splashes of orange, blue or purple in autumn and winter when other plants are dormant, as well as fresh vibrant greens and yellows in spring.

A final positive in their favour; they are mostly easy to care for and as long as they’re planted in the right spot will only need a little pruning and watering, Conifers tolerate a wide range of soil types and conditions, putting up with much that other evergreens would not.

Try to match conifers to your garden situation; for smaller gardens avoid varieties which grow very quickly or get very big. As a rule it is best to buy good sized specimens of slow-growing cultivars for smaller gardens. It gives a mature look straightaway and there is virtually no pruning required.

Feeding is very straight forward – a root feed when planting such as bonemeal, rose fertiliser or Vitax Q4, and then again in spring to support the new seasons growth. Conifers in pots benefit from liquid feeding but only when the plants are actually making growth and not in the dormant season.

Plant of the Month – September

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Perennial Asters, Sedums and Japanese Anemones are all on full song. All are easy to grow and have a good long flowering season. They can be planted almost anytime of the year but inevitably you will notice them more in the garden centre when they are actually in flower. Local soils range from sandy acid, to heavy alkaline clay and shallow chalk. Any of them can be improved with some good organic matter to grow this collection of autumn beauties. Asters [Michaelmas Daisies] include a large range of hybrids and it is worth checking labels to see that you have what you want in terms of height and colour. The other factor with Asters is that they can be prone to disease, especially if they are growing in poor conditions and getting stressed. Aster novae-angliae, the New England Asters are generally taller and may need staking but produce lots of flowers that are very suitable for cutting. The Aster novi-belgii are usually shorter and have tough woody stems to keep them upright. Generally the species asters such as A. laterifolius and A. amellus are less prone to infection and  are worthy garden plants.

Sedums with their thick waxy leaves are very tolerant of dry conditions and many have lovely late summer flowers that especially attract the late feeding bees. Japanese Anemones, with their flowers held in above the foliage will do well in sun or part shade providing the soil is reasonable.

Gardening Summer Glory, August 2010

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

So far so good as far as this summer is concerned! We have been really lucky in this part of the world; it was a very cold winter with plants going into quite deep dormancy, enough rain to top up the underground supplies and soil moisture levels but not too wet for most plants. We had a late but incredibly colourful spring with wonderful blossom on most trees and shrubs.

Since then, warm dry days with the occasional bit of rain, have allowed everything to grow but kept at bay some of plant disease problems that you associated with cold wet growing seasons. Roses look good and not too much potato or tomato blight as yet. The importance of soil health is really obvious in dry periods. Soils with lots of organic matter in them and even better, soils with a good layer of mulch, hold their moisture longer and produce better crops. The investment in compost or bark is easily paid off by the improvement in the plants that are grown, and that’s all there is to it. If you don’t want to buy ready made compost and lug heavy bags from garden centre to garden , and if you don’t have a friendly farmer neighbour, then you should be making your own compost. Invest in 2 good sized compost bins, plastic, wood, metal; whatever you prefer, and collect all you uncooked vegetable kitchen waste, hedge trimmings and grass clippings. Make sure they get mixed up to avoid slimy heap, keep it moist enough to heat up and let nature do its thing.

Plant of the Month

I can’t remember a summer without hydrangeas. Their large blooms bring flamboyant colour to the garden in late summer and autumn. They are easy to grow, dependable and improve with age. Use them in big, bold groups in the border, or even try them in large containers.

Hydrangea arborescens Annabelle

Hydrangea arborescens Annabelle

Hydrangeas are deciduous and can be either treated as large shrubs or small trees. They are grown for their beautifully domed or flattened flowers which appear from late summer for about a month.

The flowers normally consist of a mass of fertile flowers surrounded by infertile flowers which give the hydrangea its large flower heads. Hydrangeas are recommended for the amateur and the experienced gardener alike.
Mop head hydrangeas (with rounded heads of large flowers) come from Japan where the native species with lace cap flowers (flattened heads of large flowers) have been grown for hundreds of years. When these plants reached the west in the eighteenth century they caused a sensation, initially treated as tender and grown indoors. There are now many, many varieties to choose from.

Soils for Colour

With Hydrangeas, the soil type determines the colour. Acid soils for example produce blue flowers. To create blue flowers on a chalky soil, use a blueing compound composed of aluminium sulphate. This can be purchased at your local garden centre. However, the results won’t compare with plants growing in a naturally acid soil.
Alternatively, you could grow a compact variety such as ‘Blue Bird’ in a large container filled with ericaceous compost and supplement its liquid feed with a blueing compound.

Site and Watering

Hydrangeas are true survivors and can be often seen flowering in overgrown and neglected gardens. Mop heads and Lace Caps prefer dappled shade against a north or west facing wall. If it is too bright they are likely to scorch. Their leafy shoots need plenty of moisture during the summer, apply a mulch of well-rotted compost to drier soils to help lock in moisture and promote decent sized flowers. Plants also need to be sheltered from cold winds which can scorch new foliage during the spring.

Pruning

Pruning isn’t essential but can be done each spring as new shoots appear. With established plants, just remove one third of the older, less productive stems and cut back old flowering stems to a strong pair of buds.
Leave old flower heads on over winter to provide frost protection for new growth. The brown papery domes look great when covered with hoar frost.
Left unpruned Hydrangeas will continue to bloom but the size of the flower heads will be reduced by the overcrowded stems. Hydrangea paniculata types need to be cut back completely each spring.
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Unique’
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’
H. arborescens ‘Anabelle’
H.villosa
H. quercifolia (oak leaved hygrangea)
H. seemannii one form of climbing hydrangea
H. ‘Blue Bird’
H. ‘Grayswood’
H. macrophylla ‘Altona’ (Pink)
H. macro. ‘Blue Wave’ (Blue)
H. anomala ‘Petiolaris’ (another climbing type)
Hy. ‘Forever Summer’ – - a new group of hydrangea varieties that flower on their current season’s  growth.

Jobs for the Month –

In the fruit garden – early and mid-season strawberry plants need to be cut back tidied up and mulched to get the plants to recover after their exertion. Summer fruiting raspberry canes should be removed so that the new canes can grow well enough to be trained for next year’s crop.
Summer pruning is every bit as important as winter pruning
and is absolutely essential for fan trained peaches, nectarines and cherries, as well as for espalier and cordon apples and pears. Trim back the long side shoots so that they are only 1 leaf over the basal cluster or leaves – sounds tricky but is very obvious once you look at how the trees grow. If you are short of time you can always get the hedge trimmer out to take back the superfluous growth that is draining the plants and deflecting goodness from the fruit crop. Then trim back properly later in the year. While you have the secateurs handy and if you have a wisteria then apply the same rules to that and follow up with a further pruning in January.
Vegetable gardens – regular picking helps production – if you don’t pick then the plant will assume that no more is needed which will leave you a few leaves short in the veg trug!
Onions, shallots and garlic should be lifted and left in the sun to dry for better storage. Wet bulbs will rot.
Check potatoes and tomatoes for blight – any brown spotted and blotched leaves should be removed and burnt. Finish lifting early and second early potatoes before either the blight or the slugs make them unusable. Caterpillars will strip Brassicas a plant in not time. Check to see if they’re there. Either pick them off, or spray with pyrethrum [plant derived insecticide] or a manufactured product such as Provado Ultimate Bug Killer]. Crops are really best covered with a fine mesh such as Haxnick’s Enviromesh.
There is still time to sow salad and leaf crops for harvest this year. Radish, spinach, lettuce, parsley and rocket as well as herbs such as coriander and chervil.
Ornamental pots and planters need regular feeding and watering.  It is asking a lot of any plant to have 6 months flowering – so give them regular attention. Grass shouldn’t be cut too short in dry weather nor left too long in wet weather or you’ll never get through it. Still no news I’m afraid of the long awaited neat & evenly footed, low-methane grass eating animal that will do this job for us. Has to come one day I’m certain of that, and it could also help with shredding material for the compost heap.
Finally rose growers, a good feed and mulch now will help most sorts, except the species roses to recover strength for their autumn display.

Plant of the Month – July

Monday, June 21st, 2010

Which plant group is the backbone of the summer garden, delivering colour, fragrance and attracting the attention of beneficial wildlife and humans alike? The answer is perennials, that wonderful family of herbaceous plants that launch into life every spring.

Think of the stars of borders in gardens big and small and the chances are they will be perennials. Colour is key with perennials – there is such a varied palette to choose from. It’s up to you to decide the mood you want as the garden backdrop to your life – the excitement or vibrancy of red, the romance of pink or the calm of blue and for a plant family that offers all of these and more, look no further than perennial Salvia or sage plants.

Offering true perennial perfection, these are a wonderful choice for gardeners looking to bring stunning colour and style to their borders. There is an amazing range to select from, many of them Award of Garden Merit holders, so you can be sure of getting top performance. Now is a great time to plant container grown plants and many salvias are drought tolerant, once established. This makes them a fantastic asset if you are gardening in a drier area.

Some Salvias are great for attracting beneficial wildlife, including butterflies and bees. This will give a boost to the overall health of both your garden and the surrounding environment – so what are you waiting for? Like most perennials, Salvias are easy to look after. Some are fully hardy across the UK, but others are less so and in certain areas may be better looked on as annuals. The name Salvia comes from the latin ‘to heal’. We still use culinary Salvia in stuffing, perhaps unconciously helping our digestion!
Here are some suggestions: Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ – a wonderful perennial reaching about 75cm in height, bearing violet to purple flowers, fully hardy. Chelsea 2010 Best in Show Award winning designer Andy Sturgeon highlighted this variety in his BBC TV interview prior to the show. Salvia officinalis – a foliage plant with culinary uses, evergreen and hardy, up to 80cm high; Salvia coccinea ‘Lady in Red’ – great for a summer show of red flowers (tender). The closely related ‘Lady in White’ bears white flowers. Salvia patens ‘Cambridge Blue’ is frost hardy (safe down to -5oC’) and produces very elegant, pale blue flowers. Salvia pratensis is a clump-forming perennial with a woody base. Up to 90cm in height and bearing flowers of violet, though in some case may be pink or white. Hardy.

Salvias are a sun-loving plant, so grow in either full sun or dappled shade. Soils need to be well-drained and moderately fertile. Remove flowers once they have ‘gone over’ (dead heading) and trim in late spring any shoots that spoil symmetry.

How to grow your Mangold Wurzel

Monday, April 12th, 2010

Mangel Wurzel or Mangold Wurzel (Beta vulgaris), is a root vegetable of the family Chenopodiaceae, genus Beta (the beets). It has large white, yellow or orange-yellow swollen roots – mostly above ground. Both leaves and routes can be eaten, if you find you’re really hungry! Leaves can be slightly steamed for salads or lightly boiled as a vegetable if treated like English spinach. They like to be well fed and watered and the roots like potato for serving mashed diced or in sweet curries.

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Plant of the Month, September

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

Imagine the archetypal Japanese garden, characterised by simplicity, refinement and calm. The garden is an idealised representation of nature arranged to create a sense of well-being and to serve as a refuge from the stresses of the world. An Acer throws gentle shade onto the house, helping to keep it comfortable through the heat of the day and provides delightful colour effects through spring summer and autumn. A decorative bridge crosses running water and bamboo screens provide sympathetic divisions between the different sections of the garden. Don’t you just wish you were there? With the right plants you could achieve a similar feel in many British gardens.

Perhaps your most important ally in achieving this is the Japanese maple or Acer palmatum. A deciduous tree with a history of cultivation well in excess of 300 years, Japanese maples have been grown in temperate areas outside Japan since the 1800’s. They are well suited to garden conditions because of their compact root systems which are unlikely to undermine paths, structures or compete with other plants. Many Acers have characteristics that are striking through the different seasons, including intense autumn colour, brightly coloured winter bark and fresh new growth in spring. Their style and compactness makes them ideally suited to courtyard gardens, so much so that Acer palmatum ‘Red Pygmy’ ranks second on Channel 4’s ‘10 plants for courtyard gardens’.
Garden centres offer an exciting selection, with many having dedicated shade houses to show off Acers to their best advantage and protect them from too-strong sun which may scorch leaves. Some Acers will grow into small-medium sized trees at maturity. ‘Osakazuki’ (brilliant red autumn colours), for example, may reach a height and spread of 6m. ‘Bloodgood’ (height and spread up to 5m) is always popular and the dark red-purple leaves take on a fantastic vivid red in autumn. For very finely cut leaves as well as colour, look to ‘Garnet’, ‘Burgundy Lace’ or ‘Dissectum’ (leaves turn gold in autumn). These are also on the bigger side for Acers. For very confined spaces or containers, look out for ‘Red Pygmy’, ‘Corallinum’ or ‘Crimson Queen’.
Acers are adaptable plants, but are unhappy in wet or dry conditions and find very alkaline soils difficult to cope with. Some shade is an advantage for green-leaved or variegated varieties, but red leaves do need sun to develop deep reds to their full.

As we move into September, the next event in the natural calendar is the turning of the leaves, prior to their fall. This selection of Acers, plus many others that can be found at retail outlets, can provide a wonderful reflection of autumn right by your doorstep. Couple this will some Far Eastern flavour and you can create some garden magic to come home to!

Plant of the Month